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The Caribbean National Forest, know to most as El Yunque, is the only tropical forest in the National Forest system. This forest resides on the slopes of the Sierra de Luquillo. The highest mountain in the forest, Pico del Toro, rises 3523ft (1070meters) above sea level and makes it's own weather creating different ecosystems as one climbs higher up the mountain. Expect rain nearly everday at some point. Only the northern entrance allows access to the summit area. The southern route, which has a deep "jungle" feel as you approach road's end, was closed by a landslide at the 13.8km marker.
Turn south from highway 3 on route 191 into the sleepy town of Palmer 45 minutes east of San Juan. From the town, the mountain is often shrouded in fog. The area around Palmer is dry in stark contrast with the higher areas. The road follows a small river up the mountain with places to pull over to enjoy the views of Luquillo Beach which become ever better as you wind your way up the mountain.
The first surprise at 8.2km is La Coca Falls which is near the road. From the parking lot you can watch the water cascade over moss covered rocks. The more adventurous can climb up slippery rocks to the base of the falls. The Yocahu lookout tower is up the road at the 9km marker. Tourist buses stop here. Keep going, it gets better. At 11.6km is the Sierra Palm Visitor Center, a good place to get a trail map, info, or a camp site.
The Center, and the next two parking lots, Caimitillo, and Palo Colorado 12km, allow access to trailheads to both El Yunque summit and La Mina Falls. The hike to Mina falls down "Big Tree trail", a slippery path strewn with wet, moss covered rocks can be continued past the falls and returns to the road at 10.6km leaving a short walk (1km) up the road to the parking lots. Bathe in the pool at the bottom of the falls to cool the spirit.
The El Yunque trail will show you ecosystems and provide you with views you cannot see from the road. Take water and food as this is a 1/2 day adventure. Your boots will be soaked. It is cooler at the top so a lite waterproof windbreaker is a good thing to carry along with a rain hat. The path winds up the mountain through large fern trees and palms. About half way up (2.5mile, 4km), you can branch off to the left to the Mount Britton lookout tower.
Along the way there are many small waterfalls usually surrounded by flowers. It is not a good idea to drink the water untreated. The river snails, which cling to the rocks, produce schisto, a bacteria which can cause liver problems. The Mount Britton trail contains several sets of steep steps as well as small pools. From either this trail or the summit trail, you can walk back to the parking lot easily via the service road.
While the vistas of Luquillo Beach and the ocean as well as the rain forest are expansive, do not forget to admire the beauty next to you. Many varieties (near 50) of orchids grow in this area. Wild flowers of all kinds and colors grace the path. You may see these in the rain, the mist, in fog, or even in the sun. This area gets 240 inches of rain a year!
The mosses and Leichens have a color of their own. The rain usually comes in the afternoon. While it can settle in as an all day pour or mist, it often comes it short downpours between moments of mist and sunlight providing interesting shadow pattern on the rocks and leaves. Small pools and creeks offer places to wash-up or cool down after the heat of the climb. Lizards will skurry off rocks as you approach.
One of the things that you will notice as you start the climb is the number and range of sizes of the many fern trees and bushes. Leaves are often six feet long on plants less than 10 feet off the ground. They will droop on the the path when drenched with rainwater giving an erie appearence to the area. In the sun, the leaves show many shades of green as the light passes through them.
At the middle elevations the path winds amonst tall tree with ferns growing at the base. I climbed this trail in 1990, just 6 months after hurricane Hugo devastated the area. On the east slops, the windward side with respect to hurricanes, the tops of most trees were gone as if sheared off by by large hedge clippers. Miles of the ridge line looked like this. It reminded me of the Mount Staint Helens forest in Oregon, after the erruption.
If you skip the Mt. Britton path and continue up the mountain, you will notice the tree and fern become smaller, the temperature cooler, and the views less obstructed by tall trees and brush. The top of the mountain is usually 15 degrees cooler then the bottom. A mile past the Mt. Britton branch will put you at the fork leading to Los Picachos lookout. You will first drop down and then climb up a steep crumbling stairs to reach the top of this hill.
Tremendous damage was done to this area by hurricane Hugo in 1989. The trees on Los Picachos ridge were leveled by the high winds. Because of the damage, the trail to the lookout was closed. It is now open again. Much of the foliage has regrown. Rest and enjoy the view. The remainder of the climb to the top is not difficult. The communication station at the top is usually open on weekdays. 
You can return by the path you came up or take the easy way down via the service road. Part way down the service road you can venture back into the forest via the high side of the Mt. Britton trail. If you didn't stop at minna falls on the way up, try cooling off in its cool waters on the way down. Te mountain dominates the eastern end of the island. These are great hikes which cannot be duplicated on the mainland.
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