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There are two routes to the northeastern end of the Island from San Juan. The fast route, highway 3, goes inland through Carolina and Rio Grande to Fajardo. Route 3 is an open access, four-lane road past Fajardo. Avoiding rush hour, this trip usually takes less than an hour. The scenic drive via Rt.187, follows the coast joining highway 3 at Rio Grande and can take twice as long.
Route 187 starts at the east end of Isla Verde near Boca Cangrejos, a favorite local beach, and winds through pine groves to the historic town of Loiza. This area is known as Pinones, is a strip of land between the ocean, and the Islands largest mangrove lagoon. The road is narrow and dotted with food shanties. Don't be put off by their appearance, the local food is great as is the ocean view. Parking is often on soft sand or up tire-track dirt inclines.
The long, palm tree lined beaches and cold "coco frio" drink, make stopping worth while. Ponies are a common means of travel in this area. There are carved rock formations at Point Vacia Talega just before Loiza. This old town sits on the banks of Rio Grande de Loiza and is the center of the Island's African culture. The San Patricio church has been functioning since 1645.
Route 187 winds through the town and its narrow streets towards Rio Gande. Rio Grande has seen much recent growth and is the home of new condo building, a race track, and several prominent golf courses including Club RioMar and Bahia Beach. After joining route 3, our trip continues east towards Fajardo. The Sierra de Luquillo mountains appear to the south as you continue east towards Fajardo. While they are often visible in the morning, they are usually shrouded in clouds by midday.
The large, mainland-style, "Grande" grocery store on route 3 just after Rio Grande is a good place to shop. I often buy a cheap cooler and fill it here. The high-rise condos in the town of Luquillo will signal the turnoff to one of the Islands best beaches or 1/2 mile further, Rt.992 into town. Just before Luquillo, you will go past Rt.191 which turns south to the mountains and the El Yunque rain forest area and then a "strip-mall" of food shanties.
I have eaten well at many of these emporium. The town of Luquillo has several good restaurants and a nice ocean front drive. Parador Martorell sits just back from the town beach on the west side of town. The town of Luquillo which has a nice beach walk. I have found good snorkeling on the west end of the town beach. At low tide, you can walk to Luquillo beach going west. Palms reflect in a rain puddle in the park's parking lot.
Most islanders seem to agree that Luquillo beach is the most beautiful Balnerio (public beach) on the island. There is a fee to get in but it is well worth it. It is a short walk from the parking lot past the coconut groves of this ex-plantation to the beach. The beach is lined with palm trees and has outdoor showers to wash the salt off before you leave. Notice the damage to the palm tree caused by hurricane Hugo in this 1989 picture.
My kids call this the emerald beach because of the color of the water and the way it sparkles in the sun. Coconuts roll down to the water line. There are rain-sheltered picnic areas to sit under if an afternoon shower develops. This beach is also a favorite for local joggers. The east end of the beach, past the guarded swimming area is a fishing spot. Local fishermen will launch small boats from the sand and set nets in the rips between the coral reefs.
To the south of the beach loom the mountains of the El Yunque rain forest. While the coast is usually sunny, El Yunque is often covered in clouds. Often the afternoon storms on the mountain and the hot air currents give rise to spectacular cloud formations over the mountains. Short rain squalls cause rainbows and great cloud formations over the ocean to say nothing of sunsets.
At low tide you can walk east for miles, past the town beach, Playas San Miquel and Convento, nearly all the way to Seven Seas Beach at Las Croabas. The latter beaches are far less crowded on hot weekends. In the evening the mud flats reflect the sunsets. Locals fish this area in small, colorful boats at high tide. Surf fisherman also cast into these waters which are protected by a coral reef 1/4 mile out.
Traveling east past Luquillo beach and its cloud formations, you will come to the quaint hill and port town of Fajardo. North on route 987 is Las Croabas, one of my favorite beach walking and snorkeling areas. To the east is the ferry landing at Playa de Fajardo. Just south of town, a short drive through sugar cane fields, is the airport for flights to the eastern islands of Culebra and Vieques.
There are a number of reasonable hotels in this area. The town also has several large shopping malls just off highway 3 and a beautiful, old town square. We will visit the port area first. Take the first Fajardo exit, Rt.194, and go east through the north side of town to Rt.195. Continue east on Rt.195 to the harbor. Note Rt.987 north for future reference. The Isleta Marina condos sit off shore just beyond the tug in the harbor. The coast road south ends a 1/2 mile south at the Fajardo river.
There are several restaurants with outdoor eating areas on this stretch of road. Park at the end of the road across from Rosa's and check out the reflections in the Fajardo river. A seafood dinner at Rosa's will cap your day. You can also get to the port area from Fajardo's southside by taking rt.194 north from Rt. 3 and going east on Rt.195 1 mile north. This path just skirts the center of old town.
The ferry to the Islands leaves from Playa de Fajardo. The custom's house and the Hotel Delicias line the dock area. The hotel is very reasonably priced and reminds one of a place in a Caribbean novel. It has a central court yard and fans whirling in the spartan rooms. Many expensive yachts call this area home. Sailing among the islands is very popular. You can rent a boat or take one of the many charters to Icacos Cay for an afternoon of sun and snorkeling.
The dock area bustles early in the morning as cargo and people get ready for the ride to the islands. The ferries leaves more often to Vieques then Culebra so you need to check their schedules prior to making plans. Take food and drink on the ferry as many have no provisions. There is a small cafe across from the hotel. The Burgerking at the Rt.194, 195 interection is open early for those who like this fare.
Plan on walking around the town square which is bordered by a large Iglesia (church) and the town Library. This is a favorite mingling place for locals and pigeons. The roads are very narrow and traffic moves slowly during business hours in old-town so plan accordingly. The road to the airport leaves from the south west corner of the square going under Rt. 3. 
My favorite airport to fly to the eastern Islands, or to the Virgin Islands, is on the south side of Fajardo surrounded by cane fields. Use exit Rt.985 south from Rt.3 on the western edge of Fajardo or take Rt.976 south from the center of town. The flights are very reasonable and usually can be booked on short notice except around holidays. Leave your car in the parking lot for the day.
Most of the airlines fly single or small twin engine planes to the Islands. Take-offs and landings are often towards or from the rain forest mountains offering dramatic vistas of this area. On one flight, we circled in over the Las Cabezas Peninsula. I have marked on the photo to show the layout of the land since there seem to be few maps of this area. It also demonstrates the diversity of the Island's terrain.
By either ferry or air, you will pass the island condos and marina called Isleta Marina. Looking south you will also get a feeling for the size of Roosevelt Roads, one of the largest navy bases in the world, located just south of Fajardo and off limits to visitors. Usually there are large ships in the protected harbor. You will also see the reef that protects the waters of the area and the many cays, such as Palominos, a favorite getaway.
Going north on rt. 987 from rt. 195 takes you pass Villa Marina Yacht Harbor and the fish market. Stop and watch the fishermen clean the catch-of-the-day. Just past the fish market is the small fishing town of Sardinera, seen (left) from the dock. Dos Marina condos dominate the ocean view to the south. El Conquistador sits on the hill to the north.
The Parador La Familia is a good place to stay in the Las Croabas, Fajardo area. It has a nice pool area with a cute bar over looking it. The sundeck overlooks the back of the golf course below the resort. The parador is located just north of Fajardo on Rt.987 passing the entrance to El Conquistor resort, the Seven Seas Beach, and the small fishing village of Las Croabas. A number of good restaurants and several Inns also grace this road.
Route 987 goes past the Balnerio Seven Seas gate and parking area. This maintained beach stretches west and is lined with palms. As the road turns east at the ocean, you will find a short unmaintained beach leading to the gate for the Las Cabezas refuge. The beach east of the gate appear to be restricted but the fence just marks the refuge boundary. The beach and shoreline are public. Playa Soroco, is heavily used by the locals to launch water jetski boats and to provide walking access to the wonderful, long beach (right) stretching east.
Before taking you on one of my prized beach walks, let's visit the refuge. Click on the left photo to get some official information about the park. You need a reservation to tour the park and the light house. Its best to sign-up a day in advance. This refuge has a number a guided tours through the lagoon and marsh areas. Cabo San Juan lighthouse was built in 1880 and sits high on a hill. It commands a spectacular 360 degree view on a clear day including the popular cays just to the east.
Now to cool off. Join the locals, park under a palm and prepare to swim, scuba, snorkel, or hike this little slice of heaven. Generally, only the first part of this beach has significant numbers of people on it. The beach is separated from the lush refuge by a fence but is still shaded by the tall palms in many places for those who don't want to burn. This beach walk goes for miles in scalloped sections, each one offering a different view or recreational opportunity. Looking back you can see Luquillo and El Yunque in the distance.
The water is usually calm giving excellent visibility for snorkeling. Coral grows in clumps and the tides rush between them curving depressions in the shallow water. You can read the water depth by looking at its color. Light blue means shallow and dark blue deeper. Coral shows as dark areas. Many small fish inhabit the shallow waters. Scuba divers go to the reef a 100 yards out. Conch shells crawl the bottom along with the spring starfish migration.
Looking into the refuge, you can get an idea of the dense, semi arid tropical vegetation that inhabits the area and the thickness that hides the wildlife. Small needle fish and barracuda prowl the shallows in search of bait fish as do the locals. The underwater grassy areas are home to large sea cucumbers and crabs. The second section of this beach curves around an inlet and then follows below the cliffs of the Cabezas San Juan peninsula.
If you climb up these cliffs towards the Cabo San Juan Light house, which probably puts you on refuge land, you will get a spectacular panoramic view of Las Croabas, Luquillo beach, and the El Yunque mountains rising above the beach. The last inlet before cliffs is an excellent place to hunt for shells which beach here during storms. If you venture out to the breaker line you will see larger fish near the deep drop-offs. These are dangerous waters due to the fast moving currents and waves so be careful.
Route 987 ends at Las Croabas, a small fishing village at the end of the road on the Cabezas San Juan peninsula but on its east side. Rising directly above the dock area is the huge El Conquistador resort. The fishing sloops in the harbor are brightly colored and put out to sea most mornings. At night this area comes alive with outdoor entertainment.
It is not uncommon to find a band playing in the open air bar across from Playa Soroco beach or at the Las Croabas dock area on weekend evenings. Have a cameras ready since sunsets over the beach are often incredible. To cool off, join the locals and order a cold Medalia beer brewed on the Island. Further south, across from the naval base, is Ceiba and then Humacao. El Yunque will loom west as you continue our cybertour around the eastern part of Puerto Rico.
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