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As you drive south from Fajardo towards Naguabo, you can take Rt. 976-971 which follows the Rio Fajardo through green farmland, skirting the eastern edge of El Yunque, and its rain forest or you can stay on highway 3 through Ceiba which skirts the west side of Roosevelt Roads, the largest naval base in the western hemisphere.
The four-lane divided highway ends after Fajardo so expect the narrow 2-lane segments of Rt. 3 between Ceiba and Humacao to take some time as they finish the autopista (superhighway). I use these opportunities to get lunch at one of the local roadside stands. My favorite is the barbecue chicken found at a local "Pollo" stand or impromptu grill. Stop and ask what's cooking if you see smoke rising from a grill.
The coast and mountain roads often travel very slowly. A new superhighway, Rt. 53, is being built and will allow fast travel along the eastern coastal areas. You can see the construction as you follow coastal Rt. 3. Sections now connect segments between Ceiba, Humacao, Yabucao on thru to Guayama where Rt. 53 meets the superhighway, Rt. 52, which connects San Juan and Ponce. While efficient, the big roads do not show the charm of the villages.
After Ceiba, Rt. 3 returns to the coast at Playa de Naguabo, an active fishing port whose waters are protected by Point Lima. While this small village is not mentioned in the tourists books, you don't want to miss it. A seawall protects the town and holds up the road. It is a favorite walking and gathering place and offers an expansive view of the harbor and bay area and the many small boats that anchor here.
As shown above, much of the town is built on a hill overlooking the sea. Numerous shops and concession stands are located across the road from the seawall. The fish markets are down the hill to the east as you enter town along a narrow sidestreet bordered by some good seafood restaurantsn and several local bars. It is better to walk down this street, which is lined with red flowers, to the harbor area as parking is scarce.
Most days when the water is clam, early in the morning fishermen take their small boats out to the ocean coastal waters to catch fish and check crab and lobster pots. The fleet is usually back by midday with the catch. The fish are weighed on the scale near the boat ramp at the bottom of the hill and sold in open market. Lobster and crab are also caught by the locals. Some of the catch shows up in the local restaurants.
At day's end, these boats cast colorful reflections in the late sun. From Naguabo, you can return to San Juan via Rt. 31 west which intersects 4-lane highway 30 from Humacao at Junco. Route 31 intersects with Rt. 191 north 8 miles from Playa Naguabo. This winding road is the entrance to the south side of El Yunque park. Because of a landslide near the top of the mountain, you cannot continue thru on this road to the north side of the park.
Continuing 4 miles south on Rt. 3 brings you to a popular, public beach and gathering area at Playa Humacao. This long stretch of beach runs for several miles past Punta Santiago just north of the industrial town of Humacao. Just after the bridge over Rio Anton Ruiz, you will see the start of the picturesque, palm tree lined beach. This is and open accesss area so watch for traffic before pulling on or off the beach area.
Up river from the bridge is the Humacao Wildlife Refuge, a series of lagoons and good bird watching area. Across the beach are numerous concession stands. This is a good spot to try a coconut and rum drink (fria coco) while sitting under a palm tree. I like the quiet reflections in the river near the bridge area and the palm trees that partly mask Point Lima off to the east. 
Just east of Point Lima, showing as a gray shadow on the horizon, is the island of Vieques. To the southeast, the Cayo Santiago helps to protect the beach. This island is the home of rhesus monkeys brought here for research purposes. It is off limits. This beach offers many opportunities for those interested such as volleyball, surf fishing, crabbing, and swimming. Picnics under the trees are very popular on weekends. Bring your hammock and find a couple of good trees. 
The Cerro la Pandura mountain just south of Yabuco, our next destination, looms against the sunset. Just south of the Humacao beach area, Rt. 3 winds its way through the industrial town of Humacao. Avoid this trip at lunch hour. While in the downtown area visit Casa Roig which was built in 1920 and was the home of the architect Antonin Nechodoma. It is now a museum and art gallery. 
If you are in a hurry (ca. 45 mins)to return to San Juan go west from Humacao via 4-lane Rt. 30. Five miles south of Humacao at the end of Rt. 923 is one of the Islands largest resorts, Palmas del Mar. This area provides all forms of recreation from golf and tennis to horseback riding. Rt. 923 also provides access to Rt. 906 which loops south via Playa Guayanes, a nice drive if time is no problem.
The hills become more apparent, rising above the cane fields, as Rt. 3 heads inland to Yabucoa which in a valley below the Cuchilla de Panduras mountain chain. Smokestacks in the distance signal your arrival. Just before the mountains you come to the intersection of Rt. 901 and Rt.3 south. Try Rt. 901 east, one of my favorite drives which hugs the coast as it climbs around Cerro la Pandura. Rt. 901 west intersects with Rt. 182, the eastern end of Ruta Panoramica which crosses the interior of the island.
If you choose to drive towards San Juan from the south via Rt. 182 and then Rt. 181 to San Lorenzo, you will cross mountains and lush farm land. Chickens and roosters cross the road in front of you so drive slowly. Cattle egrets often perch on the backs cows grazing in the green fields. The mountain roads are often narrow and winding. If you get caught behind a cane truck in the hilly inland area, you will not need to worry about speeding.
Rt. 901 goes from sea level to to the top of the mountains and back to sea level providing many visas of the Caribbean Sea and as well as the small farms nestled on the hillsides. Playa Lucia is a short downhill to the water just as Rt. 901 starts to climb. This beautiful Palm lined beach area has fallen into disrepair but is well worth a short walk. Fast ocean currents make the beach dangerous. Be sure to look back as you start the climb. 
Comming over the hill provides a distant view of the Point Tuna lighthouse. Near the top of the hill is a seafood restaurant, El horizonte, which commands a vista of the coast below. Winding Rt. 3 over the mountain thru Maunabo brings you to the same area south of Maunabo. A small road (these are not always easy to follow), Rt. 7760, descends to the small, Punta Tuna lighthouse parking lot. The lighthouse was built by Spain in the 1890's and is now part of the US Coast Guard system.
The lighthous is closed to the public. A short path following the fence on the left side of the parking lot will get you to a beautiful beach at the base of the cliff below the lighthouse. This is a great spot! Make sure you bring your camera. The lighthouse is best seen in the morning from this beach. Notice the many flowers and the variety of vegetation surrounding the beach and parking lot area. Follow the narrow roads west as best you can to the west side of the light house and Playa Puerto Maunabo.
Playa Puerto Maunabo is now a well maintained, palm tree lined Balneario. The mile long beach offers a good east-looking view of the lighthouse which is best seen in the afternoon. The facilities include lockers, food, and a band shell. Music and dancing filled the weekend evening of my last visit. The rowboat sitting on the beach was a good place to rest and think about the tranquillity of the area.
Rt. 760 skirts the cane fields taking you back to Rt. 3 in the town of Maunabo. Looking back you can see the lighthouse perched on the cliff jutting into the sea. The Point Tuna headland is again visible as you climb the coastal Guardarraya Mountains, on the road to Patillas. Descending the range, you pass the Caribe Playa resort. If you are in a hurry, the newly opened section of the Autopista goes directly into Guayama.
From Patillas, Rt. 184 provides a scenic road to the Carite Forest Reserve and its lust forest. Bath at Charco Azul, a large natural pool at the 17.8 Km marker. Return to the coast via Rt. 179. The southeastern shore beaches are very different from those to the north. They are often very narrow, steep, and composed of a coarse sand. Just south of Guayama is the Jobos National Estuarine Reserve. Its visitor center is off Rt. 705. This is the largest bioluminescent bay on the island. There is a boardwalk crossing the mangrove lagoon near Mar Negro down Rt. 703.
Guayama is an old town with a cathedral graced by a large plaza. To the west along Rt. 3 is Salinas and its beach, Playa Salinas, a good place to get seafood. Rt. 15 thru the mountains to Cayey will give you a good feel for the mountain areas. On a clear day the views from the road can be dramatic. Remember these roads travel slowly so allow time. Rt. 53 to Rt. 52 provides the fast route back to San Juan or west to Ponce. Scenic Rt. 1 between Cayey and Caguas is more interesting. Rt. 796 loops east just north of Caguas following the shores of Lake Loiza.
West of Rt. 52 the land and culture change abruptly. Gone are the ways and fast pace of the city. The hill turn to mountains. The roads become interestingly narrow in places. Have a good map. Many of the small side go to interesting places. Rt. 156 climbs to Aguas Buenas and its caves which can be found off Rt. 794. From Cayey, Rt. 14 goes west to Albonito. Rt. 725 leads to San Cristobal Canyon, the deepest on the island. A small unmarked road off Rt. 725 at Km marker 5.5 provides a view of this wonder. Further south on Rt. 14 is Coamo.
If heading to Ponce and the Southwest area via Rt. 52, turn north on Rt. 153 to Coamo. Here you can find the famous hotspring salt baths just south of town in the foothills off Rt. 546. Some of the baths are public and others are part of the beautiful Parador Bancos de Coamo complex. Some believe that this is the "Fountain of Youth" Ponce de Lyon sought. You can drive to the public baths on a dirt road. They are just below the hotel.
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