 |
|
|
times
 |
Vieques is the larger of the two eastern islands, 21 miles long and 4 miles wide. About half the island is under US military control. Its 8,000 residents live mainly in the middle of the island. Vieques can be reached by ferry from Playa de Fajardo or small plane from the airport south of Fajardo. Often you can walk in and get a ticket for that day.
A number of local carriers fly this route (ca. $15) using single and twin engine planes. The airport is at the base of El Yunque so planes flying from here circle a section of the mountain before heading to the drier islands. The panoramas of the rain forest from the cockpit are beautiful. Wind currents can be exciting.
The route takes you over Playa de Fajardo and the cays before landing at the airport 4 mlies west of Isabel. Many prefer to enjoy the 90 min., $3 ferry ride to Vieques. The ferry departs from the terminal at Playa de Fajardo. Check the schedule prior to making plans. Autos require advanced reservations.
While it is only 6 miles from the mainland the ferry ride from Playa de Fajardo is nearly 20 miles docking at Isabel II on the center of the north coast of the island. The ferry cruises out of protected Playa de Fajardo harbor past the island condos of Isleta Marina. Behind is the Hotel El Conquistador which sits like a mighty fortress on the top of the hill to the north.
Clouds hang over the rain forest and on occasion looking back you can see a rainbow over the mountain. The wind comes up and the ocean waves get larger as you head to open sea. Those sunning themselves at the back of the boat, like my daughter and her new friend, will get wet on a rough day. The ferry shares the ocean with other boat enjoying the day. Take drink to wash down the salt air.
As you approach Isabel Segunda (II), founded by the Spanish in 1843, you will see its old lighthouse on the east bluff. The ferry docks in the center of town. This is a good place to buy what you need for the day as much of the island is fairly isolated. "Publicos" usually meet the ferry. While I have not done it yet, Vias Car Rental (741-8173) rents scooters and I think this would be an exciting way to do the Island.
The Spanish style light sits a short walk up a small hill from the ferry dock and offers an excellent view of the harbor area. You will also notice the many small fishing boats that anchor in the harbor. Locals often use ponies as a means tranportation. Most of these are decended from Spanish stock several hundered years ago and some still roam wild on the Island. They are often roped to the roadside to forage for grass.
Puerto Rico and the eastern islands are in the path of many
tropical
hurricanes. Hurricane Hortense cause considerable damage to the islands this year. I visited the in 1990 just after hurricane Hugo did its terrible destruction. I could see the damage the winds had caused to the houses in the country side and just outside of Isabel. In many cases, only foundations were left of what use to be houses. Boats were thrown on shore and tops of palm trees were gone.
On the hill above town are the remains of a Spanish fort. This site offers an excellent view of the nort coast. To to west you can make out the mile-long Mosquito Pier that was use to ship out sugar cane at the turn of the century. Before we could catch a "publico", a local offered us a ride to Esperanza on the southern side of Vieques in his jeep. I caught a view of the the harbor before the road turned south to Esperanza.
Our new friends let us off at Sun Bay Beach and gave us directions to get to local favorites such as Half Moon and Navio beaches as well as Blue and Red Beaches on accessible military land just to the east. Bring your own equipment for maximun flexibility. Two cays protect the white sand beaches in front of Esperanza providing a wide area of calm water.
Some small reefs near the cays are within swimming distance of the beach and offer good snorkeling and fishing. I saw some large fish, looked like barracuda, chasing lunch in the shallow grassy flats between the beach and the cays as well as several large schools of yellow jack. Locals were fishing off the beach and doing well.
The water was very clear in most places. The coral reef areas I found that were accessible from the beach were not as impressive as those I found in Culebra, but were very rewarding in any case. Large pockets of yellow and black striped angel fish could often be found at the base of coral heads. This group was feasting on my corn nibblets.
There several large coral reefs just off the southern shore of Vieques. Local boat trips to these areas can be booked at the diving shops. Some of these boats sail to the reef areas. Esperanza is an active area offering good eating and a nitelife for those who want to party. Many of the overnite places are in this area including two Paradors.
Esperanza is near one of the
world's best phosphorescent bays and location for the final scene of the 1960s movie "Lord of the Flies". The ride back to the ferry dock takes us through rolling hills and pastures. Horses graze on the hill sides. Cattle are often followed by flocks of egrets. The climate in center of the Island is generally arid.
The Island's hills and forests are home for many species of plants and flora. This trip I was in search of the flower the
Taino Indians call "maga" but settled for these red beauties. As the ferry leaves the peaceful harbor providing one last look at the lighthouse, it beckons us to return and we know we will. 
I have not visited Green Beach at the far western end (need a jeep ) or Puerto Diablo towards the northeastern end, one of the Burmuda Triangle markers, but stories create a sense of "must do" adventure. As you fly from the Island over the mile-long pier, you can see Mount Pirata, a source of more ledgends, to the south. The empty ferry terminal is a sign that this vicarious leg of your Puerto Rico Journey has come to an end.
[TOP]
[Culebra]
[PR]
[PR NW]
[PR NE]
[PR SW]
[PR SE]
[El Yun]
[PR San J]
[Prof.
J.]
[O.D. Club] [Wis Riv] [Starved R.] [EID] [AMP] [BMT] [IIT] [IIT Photo] [PJ's Page]