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San
Juan is the largest city in Puerto Rico. It is serviced by the Luis Munoz
Marin International Airport which is a short drive from the ocean and the
city central to the northwest. Just north of the airport is the Isla Verde
beach area and its large, expensive casino hotels. Going west on route 26
you will drive through Atlantic View, Ocean Park, and then Condado. Past
the Laugna del Condado lies Old San Juan and its narrow streets.
There are two
forts protecting San Juan, one from an ocean attack, the other from land
invasion. The largest, which guards the harbor, is El Castillo San Felipe
del Morro, usually refered to as EL Morro. A half mile to the east is
Fort San Cristobal. Looking east along the coast from the ramparts of San
Cristobal one can see all the way to Isla Verde. Looking slightly south you
gaze at the old city and the Capitol Building.
Old
San Juan is built inside of the castle wall. The ramparts extend from San
Cristobal on the east side to the turrets of El Morro guarding the straights
to the west. The wall wraps around the point to the bay side. The walk
between these two points follows the ridge crest with the Atlantic Ocean far
below. This is a rugged coast with large waves rolling in from the north.
From the southern ramparts on San Cristobal you look down on the busy
Plaza Colon with its statue of Columbus. The square is surrounded by
restaurants and shops. Further south you see the docks used by the many
cruise ship which frequent the port. There is a nice outdoor eaterie plaza
near the dock. This is a good area to rest awhile and people watch.
Between the two castles lies the beautiful San Juan Cemetery and its
stark, neoclassical chapel. The cemetery, often called one of the most
beautiful in the world, is situated between the fort wall and the ocean
cliffs. Through the walled system you will see turrets were the sentries
stood guard over the city. The views from some of these are very good. 
The large field in front of El Morro was once used to drill and train the
troops. Today it is a picnic area and a great place to fly kites. The
highest level of El Morro has a lighhouse. Leaning out the rampart
openings you can see to the west the straights of San Juan which are flanked
by a long, palm tree covered stretch of land known as Isla de Cabras.
Looking to the east you see the makeshift houses which are situated on the
hill on which the forts sit.
You can drive to Isla de Cabras and picnic between the plam trees on this
thin piece of land. The view of Old San Juan is similar to the one at
the top of this page. The forts have many places to explore and families
spend the day here on weekends. There is a shop in El Morro with many books
on the history of the Island. My kids searched out the turrets. The
isolated ones tend to get used in emergencies so they tend to smell.
You can drive in Old San Juan but you are better advised to take
public transportation or walk. The streets are very narrow and go up steep
hills. Many are one way and parking is hard to find. If you wander the
streets, you will find many interesting shops, bars, places to eat, and
hidden squares. The churches are generally situated on plazas and many have
beautiful stainglass windows. After a long walk in old town it is time for a
cooling swim. 
A
short distance west of San Juan is the popular beach at Isla Verde. Some of
the Island's largest and most expensive hotels border this beach. The far
eastern end at Boca de Cangrejos has nice coral reefs. While many of the
beach hotels are very expensive, if you go just several block off the water,
they become much more reasonable. I often stay at the
Villa Verde Guest House across the street from the beach.
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[Prof.
J.]
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