Minnesota
Wisconsin
Beta:
Why we are here
Someone proposed the idea of a Taylor's Falls guidebook to me in the spring of 99. We knew little of the climbing history, but we did know that there was more rock than the guidebook Minnesota Rock was telling us about. While a lot of climbers at Taylors Falls are of the mature sort and have a guidebook from the 80's we were from the new generation of climbing and little info was easily accessible. Upon further research I uncovered a copy of the 1972 guidebook, a copy of the Midwest Mountaineering update of the 1972 book, a 1989 book by Peter VonGrossmann and Peter Scott, a copy of the bouldering guide by Chris Eklund from 1994, and Minnesota Rock, by Mike Ferris. Published in 1995 this was the most up to date book covering the Taylors Falls area. It featured selected climbs and good info for those just starting out. All are out of print, the 1989 book due to it's descriptions of closed areas (the cross, etc.). Route names vary from book to book due to various climbing circles. None of the books I have looked at have any first ascent information. I feel this is an important part of a guidebook, so I put a call to anyone with first ascent information.
Current Printed Guides
Rock Climbing: Minnesota and Wisconsin is available. It includes the following areas and the number of routes: Blue Mounds (143) Devil's Lake (141, mostly East Bluff) Red Wing (133) Willow River (20) Taylors Falls (135, no closed routes or boulder problems listed) Ely's Peak (18) Palisade Head (96) Shovel Point (25) Wolf (=Johnson) Lake and Mystical Mountain (40) Sawmill Creek Dome and Section 13 (33) Carlton Peak (27) There will be 811 routes; 160 cliff photos; about 13 maps; no topos; and a bunch of action pictures.
Park Regulations
A parking permit is required for vehicles in both state parks. 4 dollars for a day pass and 20 dollars for an annual. On week days a Minnesota permit can get you access to the Wisconsin park and vise versa. The Minnesota park would like all climbers to register annually at the park office. Compliance with these rules will help keep climbing open to all of us.
Ethics
The Interstate parks are strictly a traditional area, so DO NOT PLACE BOLTS. Almost every route has been lead or soloed in one way or another. A popular beginner hangout. Due to the amount of climbing traffic on the weekends, do not let top ropes hang with out being climbed on. Large groups like to inhabit the Sonny and Juanita base and shuttle kids up and down all day. Bouldering is also very popular, with the Minnesota side being very popular and the Wisconsin somewhat less. In the winter when the sun shines it is often worth the trip to give one of the harder routes a clean aid ascent.
Camping, Hiking, Other Stuff
Both Minnesota and Wisconsin Parks have campgrounds which fill up real fast on summer weekends. Other camprounds are nearby. Both parks have excellent hiking trails featuring nifty waterfalls. The wisconsin park has a quality swimming beach off of the river. Canoe rentals are available on both sides of the river.
Ratings
All climbs are in the Bridwell (+/-) Yosemite Decimal Scale. Quality ratings are personally set by me, so if you differ? You differ.
No pluses = OK climb, enjoyable just because it's rock, you very well may disagree.
+ = Notable route, good time had by all.
++ = Good enough to write home about.
+++ = The best Taylors falls has to offer.
Credits
Having been climbing for 8 years, and seriously for the last 4, I thought it would be easy to write a guidebook since I had climbed almost every route in the park. I was wrong. The idea spawned in the spring of 99, and me being a college student I thought I could pull it off in a summer. Its been 12 rolls of film, 32 inquiries for old guidebooks, 1 broken down car, 43 good leads, 7 scary ones, 53 belays, and too many gallons of gas. With that I thank Kerry Hammons, Peter VonGrossmann, Peter Scott, Swenson, Roberts, Schmidt, Mike Farris, PJ Asche, Micheal Erickson, Ryan Phillipi, Evan Skow, and Disco Stu.
Fill Me In
If you have any additional route info, first ascent information, good photos, hot links, or comments email me at