Minnesota
Wisconsin
Indianhead Area
The Indianhead area has one of the largest expanses of rock between the two parks, but like most of the Wisconsin side, is rarely used. There is a handful of excellent routes and a plethora of moderates similar to many of the broken routes of the west bluff of Devils Lake..
Access to the bottom: From the beach walk the trail around the lake and take the Echo Canyon trail that should be your first right. Continue towards the river till you come upon a tall prow of rock on your left. That is the Indianhead. Go to the right of the prow and follow along the base to approach climbs from the bottom.
Access to the top: Go to the left of the prow and up the gully to the top.
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|
Chinatown |
5.7 |
| Climb the shallow dihedral on the back left side of the indian, taking the most direct line. | ||
|
1 |
Indian Ear +++ |
5.9 |
| The acute dihedral crack just to the left of Jawbone Crack provides diligent stemming and muscular crack work. Finish up and past the ear of the Indianhead. | ||
|
2 |
Indianhead + |
5.8 |
| Just below the head lies a 25-foot thin hand crack crawling out of a pit. Pull through the large triangle hole to the low angle slab finish. | ||
|
3 |
Indian Shoulder |
5.9 |
| Climb the arete and face just to the right of Jawbone Crack and finish on the slab. | ||
|
1 |
Air Conditioned + |
5.6 |
| A wonderful crack and face climb featuring (like most routes in the area) a nice layback crux. | ||
|
2 |
Heat Wave ++ |
5.8 |
| Be thankful for the bomber gear placements as you pull committing laybacks and mantels. Start at the locker finger crack and enter left to the open book dihedral. Use the crack and blocks to muster your way to the top. An excellent lead. | ||
|
3 |
Burly Back |
5.10 |
| Start the first 20 feet on Layback and then traverse right around the corner and finish on the crack system of Mantrap. | ||
|
4 |
Mantrap +++ |
5.11- |
| An artful Indianhead testpiece. Technically balance your way to and through the roof, and then try the steep 5.10 crack system to the top. | ||
Needle Ramps
|
1 |
Pine Needle Overhang | 5.7 |
| Short but fun. Use the slab to the small roof. Mount the roof using the crack to the left. | ||
|
1 |
Pine Needle Slab | 5.6 |
| Just right of the overhang. Crawl through some pine needle with easy slab moves. Crux at the top. | ||
The Ship's Prow
|
1 |
Boat People | 5.11 |
| Climb the left overhanging face of the prow to the south of the above areas. This rock is visible from the Minnesota boat dock. | ||
|
2 |
Atlas Shrugged Holiday in Belfast ++ | 5.9 |
| Climb the right face on bigger holds. | ||
|
3 |
Holiday in Cambodia | 5.11 |
| Start at the large pine tree and climb the right slab which may be very mossy to the upper face of Atlas Shrugged. This is the last climb in the formation that is legal to climb on. Please observe the no trespassing sign on the tree and maintain a low impact. The climbs south of this are closed | ||